I've been in my house for about 25 hours but I'm still coming home.
Slept for about 12 hours today. Got up at 11 pm now I"m still up. My schedule is fucked. I thought the extra couple of days ahead and after my trip might be a waste but my instincts were right all the way. I needed the time before the plane to ramp up and now after the whole thing these couple of days are like letting the clutch out slowly.
On the plane back, i was looking at the map on the screen at my seat and i realized in three weeks I did a lap around the globe.
Going to moscow we went over greenland and the train across europe and asia, then the plane from shanghai over the pacific.
Not a bad way to go.
I have journal writing to do and I have a bunch of emails to send the the dozen people i met on the trip.
the people, the sights, the time. It was all amazing.
I wrote, and its true, I had about seven once in a lifetime experiences on this trip.
I'm glad it's over.
I'm still absorbing it. Some of the people i met are still traveling and will be traveling for months. One guy on the train from mongolia is traveling and will end up at the shoalin temple studying kung fu.
Thats the kind of people i met.
thats why i travel.
26 March 2012
25 March 2012
24 March 2012
Clumps of hair on the sidewalk
Last few hours in shanghai.
Went to 50 mugunshan art district. Very cool place.
I found a chair on the sidewalk. Grey and black hair beside it.
Sidewalk barber.
10 yuan ...
How could I pass it up.
At the airport.
Home in fifteen hours
Went to 50 mugunshan art district. Very cool place.
I found a chair on the sidewalk. Grey and black hair beside it.
Sidewalk barber.
10 yuan ...
How could I pass it up.
At the airport.
Home in fifteen hours
22 March 2012
You can't go home again
I was here in 2001.
Near broke. No job to come home to, but it turned around, here, at this hotel, the Astor.
after I got the news I was hired for the job I have now. I bought a coke and stood on the bridge across from the hotel and watched the lights across the river.
Yesterday I saw those lights again and they are magnificent. It's raining now but I'll stand in the rain just to watch them again.
I walked through the city again. I remember shanghai as pretty in some parts. Dirty and broken in others the way most of us are.
I checked into my room and the hotel was redone in 2002. No more dorms. Fabric on the walls and carpet most floors. It's not what I remember.
The city were there were back alleys and food stalls are full of business towers.
It's different. Evolved. Can I blame them. No.
We all change.
I did find a backalley food stall and ate fried rice under a tarp in the rain.
I paid twice what I should have.
But it was worth it.
On the way to 8pm.
Change my shoes and go look at the lights.
I'm in the home stretch.
I'm drinking in as much as I can ....
Near broke. No job to come home to, but it turned around, here, at this hotel, the Astor.
after I got the news I was hired for the job I have now. I bought a coke and stood on the bridge across from the hotel and watched the lights across the river.
Yesterday I saw those lights again and they are magnificent. It's raining now but I'll stand in the rain just to watch them again.
I walked through the city again. I remember shanghai as pretty in some parts. Dirty and broken in others the way most of us are.
I checked into my room and the hotel was redone in 2002. No more dorms. Fabric on the walls and carpet most floors. It's not what I remember.
The city were there were back alleys and food stalls are full of business towers.
It's different. Evolved. Can I blame them. No.
We all change.
I did find a backalley food stall and ate fried rice under a tarp in the rain.
I paid twice what I should have.
But it was worth it.
On the way to 8pm.
Change my shoes and go look at the lights.
I'm in the home stretch.
I'm drinking in as much as I can ....
21 March 2012
Shanghai
Speed train. Beijing to shanghai.
Great!
Off the train on shanghai.
I have good memories of this city.
Quick dinner and to the hotel. I have a great view of the river and pudong.
Rest a bit
Try to see some jazz at the peace hotel.
Great!
Off the train on shanghai.
I have good memories of this city.
Quick dinner and to the hotel. I have a great view of the river and pudong.
Rest a bit
Try to see some jazz at the peace hotel.
20 March 2012
Food
Had a rough start yesterday. Forbidden city packed packed packed with people. Loads of school kids everywhere and pushy people and my camera is acting up so I could not get the one picture I really wanted.
Anyway, changed hotels then out for food.
I was feeling it so instead of the metro I jumped on a random bus. Traffic was bad so about 30 minutes later I jumped off. I was going to head for a small alley I saw yesterday for food but on the way I found a stall selling bao.
I cannot read chinese so I pointed to the first item on the list and asked for two. I figure it's on top why put something iffy on the top of your menu.
Success! I got two bao with spicy beef and egg.
Still hungry I looked for another small shop but I found 7-11. Good for a cheap drink but 7-11 here has a guy on the store cooking stuff. One bao, one fried tofu and a coke. Two bucks. Nice! This bao had beef and green onion.
Awesome!
Still not done, might make it to the alley and have a sit down meal but found a girl in a tiny stall frying small round things with black sesame on top. Ordered one....jackpot! It had thick vanilla custard! Ordered two more and had coffee at mcdonalds. Perfect.
Watched the flag go down at tienamein square and walked s bit more.
I made it to the alley but full. So I walked around.
I saw a menu with mapu tofu which is a very spicy tofu dish. I was full so I only had one plate after all when will I be in Beijing again.
The plate was deep dark red with chili and tofu. I tell you it was an epic experience.
Limped back to the hotel to sleep.
Up in about an hour for the train to shanghai.
Anyway, changed hotels then out for food.
I was feeling it so instead of the metro I jumped on a random bus. Traffic was bad so about 30 minutes later I jumped off. I was going to head for a small alley I saw yesterday for food but on the way I found a stall selling bao.
I cannot read chinese so I pointed to the first item on the list and asked for two. I figure it's on top why put something iffy on the top of your menu.
Success! I got two bao with spicy beef and egg.
Still hungry I looked for another small shop but I found 7-11. Good for a cheap drink but 7-11 here has a guy on the store cooking stuff. One bao, one fried tofu and a coke. Two bucks. Nice! This bao had beef and green onion.
Awesome!
Still not done, might make it to the alley and have a sit down meal but found a girl in a tiny stall frying small round things with black sesame on top. Ordered one....jackpot! It had thick vanilla custard! Ordered two more and had coffee at mcdonalds. Perfect.
Watched the flag go down at tienamein square and walked s bit more.
I made it to the alley but full. So I walked around.
I saw a menu with mapu tofu which is a very spicy tofu dish. I was full so I only had one plate after all when will I be in Beijing again.
The plate was deep dark red with chili and tofu. I tell you it was an epic experience.
Limped back to the hotel to sleep.
Up in about an hour for the train to shanghai.
19 March 2012
People...so many people
Up late last night. From Mongolia to china the wheels on our carriages had to be changed. It was wild to watch. I was in the car while it was hoisted, wheels changed then back on the track.
Then off into the night.
Up at nine this morning. My neighbors told me the wall would be coming up and sure enough winding up the mountain were pieces of the great wall. We all tried to snap pictures but most of us got only shots of power lines and trees.
We all counted down to getting to Beijing station. We saw the roads filling with traffic and we were there. So much different than when I was at the same station in 2006.
Off the train, into the station and I'm drowning,....drowning in people.
Wifi...to get to the hotel.
Mcdonalds! Free wifi if you have a Chinese phone number. Coffee and pineapple pie was a comfort but I needed a shower.
Over to the Marriott. Wifi! Checked my reservation and headed to the subway.
The street, the stairs, the subway. People....with the increase in cellphones since I was here last the people standing in the way or texting while the crowd spools around are a new source of impatience for me .
Looking looking looking....
The subway map is four times the size since I was here. Got it!
Ticket office...,
Liang ga...,,
It just came out!
Liang ga...,and the lady handed me two tickets! Son of a bitch! Some of my Chinese is still there!
Four stations later I'm at the hotel. Splashed out a bit. The train was a spectacular experience but the hard bed brutalized my knees elbows and hips.
Dropped my bags and instead of a shower...
Bath....
Fuuuuuuuuucccccccckkkkkkk.......
My feet swelled with joy.
Had some noodles.
Ready to hit the street.
Tried to post to facebook but no go.
Sometimes the Internet is spotty here.
More when I can fuckers...
Then off into the night.
Up at nine this morning. My neighbors told me the wall would be coming up and sure enough winding up the mountain were pieces of the great wall. We all tried to snap pictures but most of us got only shots of power lines and trees.
We all counted down to getting to Beijing station. We saw the roads filling with traffic and we were there. So much different than when I was at the same station in 2006.
Off the train, into the station and I'm drowning,....drowning in people.
Wifi...to get to the hotel.
Mcdonalds! Free wifi if you have a Chinese phone number. Coffee and pineapple pie was a comfort but I needed a shower.
Over to the Marriott. Wifi! Checked my reservation and headed to the subway.
The street, the stairs, the subway. People....with the increase in cellphones since I was here last the people standing in the way or texting while the crowd spools around are a new source of impatience for me .
Looking looking looking....
The subway map is four times the size since I was here. Got it!
Ticket office...,
Liang ga...,,
It just came out!
Liang ga...,and the lady handed me two tickets! Son of a bitch! Some of my Chinese is still there!
Four stations later I'm at the hotel. Splashed out a bit. The train was a spectacular experience but the hard bed brutalized my knees elbows and hips.
Dropped my bags and instead of a shower...
Bath....
Fuuuuuuuuucccccccckkkkkkk.......
My feet swelled with joy.
Had some noodles.
Ready to hit the street.
Tried to post to facebook but no go.
Sometimes the Internet is spotty here.
More when I can fuckers...
17 March 2012
Horse
Saw the ghenghis khan statue today. I don't remember hearing about it but it's very impressive. If you get a chance google it.
I had lunch with a Mongolian family in their yurt but I a mix up left me stranded for an hour so I took a nap.
My guide showed up and I rode a Mongolian horse to a monastery. It snowed a little bit and I caught myself in the moment, a Mongolian man and woman and myself riding horses in the snow to a Buddhist monastery. If I dreamed it I would think I was crazy but I was there!
The day had so many moments I can't write them all down. Between my camera, journal, facebook, blog and my drawings I think I captured it but it's hard to think I did, but those days when I'm on top of a stack or under a heater or on hour twenty of a spreadsheet...in my head I'll be on that horse again...
I had lunch with a Mongolian family in their yurt but I a mix up left me stranded for an hour so I took a nap.
My guide showed up and I rode a Mongolian horse to a monastery. It snowed a little bit and I caught myself in the moment, a Mongolian man and woman and myself riding horses in the snow to a Buddhist monastery. If I dreamed it I would think I was crazy but I was there!
The day had so many moments I can't write them all down. Between my camera, journal, facebook, blog and my drawings I think I captured it but it's hard to think I did, but those days when I'm on top of a stack or under a heater or on hour twenty of a spreadsheet...in my head I'll be on that horse again...
16 March 2012
A good couple of days
Two days from Irkutsk to ulaanbaatar.
In my compartment were two guys from Tajikistan. Little English so they talked to each other.
Six hours at the Russian border. The Tajiks apparently had gone to Afghanistan and the Russians wanted to know about it. The six hours might have been mainly because of that but I don't know.
Finally over the border then three hours for the Mongolians to approve and stamp our passports.
At this point I met two German guys and a Dutch girl, that are traveling. We ended up chatting most of the way to ulaanbaatar.
The group are in their twenties and we talked about politics, art, family, government. Conversations I can't have with most adults at home.
Train pulled in early and I cabbed with them to their hostel and I got to my hotel. The hostel had everything so I was a bit jealous.
I slept most of the day. Changed money. And met them for dinner. Mongolian bar b que. We did not get an answer if this was a genuine Mongolian Tradition but it was great.
Walked back to my hotel after saying goodbye. They are going to the gobi for five days and I'm headed to beijing in a day.
Tomorrow I signed up for a one day tour in the national park and with some local families.
It will be great
In my compartment were two guys from Tajikistan. Little English so they talked to each other.
Six hours at the Russian border. The Tajiks apparently had gone to Afghanistan and the Russians wanted to know about it. The six hours might have been mainly because of that but I don't know.
Finally over the border then three hours for the Mongolians to approve and stamp our passports.
At this point I met two German guys and a Dutch girl, that are traveling. We ended up chatting most of the way to ulaanbaatar.
The group are in their twenties and we talked about politics, art, family, government. Conversations I can't have with most adults at home.
Train pulled in early and I cabbed with them to their hostel and I got to my hotel. The hostel had everything so I was a bit jealous.
I slept most of the day. Changed money. And met them for dinner. Mongolian bar b que. We did not get an answer if this was a genuine Mongolian Tradition but it was great.
Walked back to my hotel after saying goodbye. They are going to the gobi for five days and I'm headed to beijing in a day.
Tomorrow I signed up for a one day tour in the national park and with some local families.
It will be great
Birthday
The train is hot. When you step out you realize how hot they keep the car but I'm in the top bunk this leg and I can feel it.
The land is definitely different. Snow is nearly gone. Brown dried brush covered hills. Trails lead from the train tracks off through the ground and disappear.
We are moving south towered Mongolia.
Cows. Occasional horses and black birds with white markings are showing up but mostly nothing out the window.
Lot of people on the train. Travellers but mostly locals riding a train from a to b. Not an adventure to them just one more day before the next.
The land is definitely different. Snow is nearly gone. Brown dried brush covered hills. Trails lead from the train tracks off through the ground and disappear.
We are moving south towered Mongolia.
Cows. Occasional horses and black birds with white markings are showing up but mostly nothing out the window.
Lot of people on the train. Travellers but mostly locals riding a train from a to b. Not an adventure to them just one more day before the next.
13 March 2012
Friends
So I'm in the hallway where there is free wifi last night checking on Mongolia when this Russian guy decides he wants to talk to me. It happens people like to practice English and I can learn some thing.
What I learned was this guy was drunk and wanted someone to drink with, great.
So I listened to his try to describe all manner of things. I thought he would get tired but he didn't . I was there for about an hour. I seemed like hours but it may have been twenty minutes. Time had lost all meaning as it does when you talk to a drunk.
In the end he wanted to get some help translating , he went to his room and I bailed out.
It was late and the Internet is still there.
Train tonight at ten.
Between here and Mongolia I turn 47.
Not a bad way to do it.
What I learned was this guy was drunk and wanted someone to drink with, great.
So I listened to his try to describe all manner of things. I thought he would get tired but he didn't . I was there for about an hour. I seemed like hours but it may have been twenty minutes. Time had lost all meaning as it does when you talk to a drunk.
In the end he wanted to get some help translating , he went to his room and I bailed out.
It was late and the Internet is still there.
Train tonight at ten.
Between here and Mongolia I turn 47.
Not a bad way to do it.
12 March 2012
Fish
We are stopped at a little town not on my map. Finally the grandmothers Rik and I had hoped for are here.
When I saw the three legged dog Rik and I saw a woman selling dried fish. We were going to try it but decided to wait until the next town, but they dos nit appear again until now.
Looking at the fish carcass I'm not as adventurous so I bought a dumplings a potato and a crunchy dessert that looks something like the Mexican churro. When I finish dinner I'll have it with coffee.
The young guy that boarded at the last station chatted with me on English most if the way here. Since the girls did nor want to share the spotlight they took a nap. My new friend Sergei left at this station and now the girls are yammering again.
This will be a long ride to Irkutsk.
When I saw the three legged dog Rik and I saw a woman selling dried fish. We were going to try it but decided to wait until the next town, but they dos nit appear again until now.
Looking at the fish carcass I'm not as adventurous so I bought a dumplings a potato and a crunchy dessert that looks something like the Mexican churro. When I finish dinner I'll have it with coffee.
The young guy that boarded at the last station chatted with me on English most if the way here. Since the girls did nor want to share the spotlight they took a nap. My new friend Sergei left at this station and now the girls are yammering again.
This will be a long ride to Irkutsk.
Krasnoyarsk
Rik left to spend a few days on krasnoyarsk. He made the last few days a lot of fun. His birthday is in a few days and he will be in Mongolia like me.
I was hoping for the cabin to myself but when I came back from buying a cup of noodles on the platform I found a young guy and two younger girls in the cabin.
The girls have not stopped talking to each other since I got here.
While they are nice to look at their entertainment value is quickly running out.
Train pulling out.
One day to Irkutsk.
I was hoping for the cabin to myself but when I came back from buying a cup of noodles on the platform I found a young guy and two younger girls in the cabin.
The girls have not stopped talking to each other since I got here.
While they are nice to look at their entertainment value is quickly running out.
Train pulling out.
One day to Irkutsk.
Kruska
Morning on the train.
We are in siberia outside omsk.
We picked up passengers in perm last night so now there are four people in my cabin.
Alexei and Andre. Twenty something. Speak mostly Russian but Alexei does speak to Rick and I in English.
I have coffee packets but no cup. There is hot water at the end of the car.
What do I do?
Alexei comes on with a glass in a sliver holder! The train provides it for coffee! Excellent! But how do I ask the older lady for a glass without getting beaten Down.
I ask alexei how you address an old woman politely. He looks confused. He says just ask, please, cup...
I tell him I want to be polite and he tells me, "we don't do this ..."
Interesting.
I ask him for the word for cup....
Krushka...,
And please
Paroshka...
And I head for the old lady.
Now the lady cleans the car and mans the hot water dispenser which is industrial grade. Both the water dispenser and the old lady.
She looks to be 60...ish... Pale pinkish white skin, thin blond hair under a blue kerchief, five foot nothing, two hundred pounds....ish.
I'm on dangerous grounds here but I want some coffee.
I approach poke my head around the corner. Using as much charm as my fat head can pull together I let it go....
Paroska....
The old lady, sitting turns her head at me....eyes on me, cheeks up with a hint of disgust.....
Krushka, I say....
She looks down, puts her hands and her knees and gets up....
Krushka..., she mutters...
YES!
She goes to the other compartment and pulls down a glass and places it in a sliver holder and hands it to me.
I have coffee and am watching the frozen wilderness pass my window.
We are in siberia outside omsk.
We picked up passengers in perm last night so now there are four people in my cabin.
Alexei and Andre. Twenty something. Speak mostly Russian but Alexei does speak to Rick and I in English.
I have coffee packets but no cup. There is hot water at the end of the car.
What do I do?
Alexei comes on with a glass in a sliver holder! The train provides it for coffee! Excellent! But how do I ask the older lady for a glass without getting beaten Down.
I ask alexei how you address an old woman politely. He looks confused. He says just ask, please, cup...
I tell him I want to be polite and he tells me, "we don't do this ..."
Interesting.
I ask him for the word for cup....
Krushka...,
And please
Paroshka...
And I head for the old lady.
Now the lady cleans the car and mans the hot water dispenser which is industrial grade. Both the water dispenser and the old lady.
She looks to be 60...ish... Pale pinkish white skin, thin blond hair under a blue kerchief, five foot nothing, two hundred pounds....ish.
I'm on dangerous grounds here but I want some coffee.
I approach poke my head around the corner. Using as much charm as my fat head can pull together I let it go....
Paroska....
The old lady, sitting turns her head at me....eyes on me, cheeks up with a hint of disgust.....
Krushka, I say....
She looks down, puts her hands and her knees and gets up....
Krushka..., she mutters...
YES!
She goes to the other compartment and pulls down a glass and places it in a sliver holder and hands it to me.
I have coffee and am watching the frozen wilderness pass my window.
The train...baltezino
The train stops for twenty minutes to change locomotives. My cabin mate Rick and I get out to see what the locals have to eat.
I just paid $11 usd for a cup of coffee on the train so I'm going to try and support the local economy.
There are carts selling noodles and beer. Then the grandmas show up with baskets of food.
Along with the grandmas five or so dogs come by the train. Sweet looking dogs, unsure of us. One brown dog with lab features is standing next to the train. I bend down and call him over. He moves close, slowly. Stops.
I rub the scruff of his neck and his body leans, then collapses against me, caresses my leg, desperate and appreciating affection.
I took a picture of the dogs and bought some chicken and potatoes from a grandma and got back to the train .
As the train pulled away Rick pointed to a brown dog and noticed.... "that dog has three legs..."
Ugh ....
I looked at my picture and that was my dog. My new friend in Siberia, lucky.
Chicken was good
Three days to Irkutsk ....
I just paid $11 usd for a cup of coffee on the train so I'm going to try and support the local economy.
There are carts selling noodles and beer. Then the grandmas show up with baskets of food.
Along with the grandmas five or so dogs come by the train. Sweet looking dogs, unsure of us. One brown dog with lab features is standing next to the train. I bend down and call him over. He moves close, slowly. Stops.
I rub the scruff of his neck and his body leans, then collapses against me, caresses my leg, desperate and appreciating affection.
I took a picture of the dogs and bought some chicken and potatoes from a grandma and got back to the train .
As the train pulled away Rick pointed to a brown dog and noticed.... "that dog has three legs..."
Ugh ....
I looked at my picture and that was my dog. My new friend in Siberia, lucky.
Chicken was good
Three days to Irkutsk ....
The train
Before I left on this trip I watched a video by Henry Rollins who took the same trip I'm on.
He got to the station and asked for help and the attendant told him he couldn't find the platform by himself.
Having seen that I was determined to do it on my own as much as much as I could.
My hotel was two blocks away so I checked my bag and left for the station five hours early. Cops are everywhere and they never have a happy look.
I read my ticket, every sign, kiosk, posting or paper.
My train ends on Vladivostok, but I'm not going that way. I found my train but no platform. I scouted the locations. There are two terminals for departing trains. I would have to wait to see which one was mine.
I ate. Waited. Waited. Walked. Snacked. Waited.
My sleep schedule was getting adjusted so I was getting tired. My train was at 2345. Last train. I could not miss it.
I watched the board. Finally at 11:00pm. My train was assigned a platform. Number 1.
I picked up my bag and left the station. It was chilly. I looked at a sign and it was -4 c. I think it converts to ....cold.
I went to the ticket window and held up my ticket and said "Irkutsk?" and pointed to the platform. The lady grumbled to her friend and pointed to the other terminal. Two ticket and passport checks and I was in.
Tired the train pulled out on time.
The berth is comfortable. Four beds but only two of us. Rick from holland. He's traveling for six months. Nice.
Out the window now is a lot of snow and trees. So pretty. Snow makes everything look clean .
two days to Irkutsk
He got to the station and asked for help and the attendant told him he couldn't find the platform by himself.
Having seen that I was determined to do it on my own as much as much as I could.
My hotel was two blocks away so I checked my bag and left for the station five hours early. Cops are everywhere and they never have a happy look.
I read my ticket, every sign, kiosk, posting or paper.
My train ends on Vladivostok, but I'm not going that way. I found my train but no platform. I scouted the locations. There are two terminals for departing trains. I would have to wait to see which one was mine.
I ate. Waited. Waited. Walked. Snacked. Waited.
My sleep schedule was getting adjusted so I was getting tired. My train was at 2345. Last train. I could not miss it.
I watched the board. Finally at 11:00pm. My train was assigned a platform. Number 1.
I picked up my bag and left the station. It was chilly. I looked at a sign and it was -4 c. I think it converts to ....cold.
I went to the ticket window and held up my ticket and said "Irkutsk?" and pointed to the platform. The lady grumbled to her friend and pointed to the other terminal. Two ticket and passport checks and I was in.
Tired the train pulled out on time.
The berth is comfortable. Four beds but only two of us. Rick from holland. He's traveling for six months. Nice.
Out the window now is a lot of snow and trees. So pretty. Snow makes everything look clean .
two days to Irkutsk
08 March 2012
Ah...I'm back
I needed stamps this morning for postcards. I pussed out and went downstairs to the gift shop where the lady told me the stamps say 25p but we charge 50p. Yes?
Now it's not the money per se but to mark up 100% because you are in a tourist hotel and you're not going to try and find a post office and fuck you very much sir...
No.
I've been a lazy bitch this trip so I decided to sack up like I should have and find a post office. Looked in the booked, two stops on the metro and I'm there. Looked up the spelling of post office in Cyrillic and found it across the street.
I went to the top of the stairs and between the bottom and the top floor empty, abandoned, blocked off office space. Thanks email!
At the top a confused lady made some hand gestures indicating I should go across the street.
Downstairs I looked but what she meant was around the building. I found another door and behind a glass partition was a sweet old lady that sold me postage for my cards and a couple of stamps for my journal.
Good start.
Now I picked a random direction and wandered down a park lane where kids were sliding on shovels and adults were playing hockey.
I kept walking but I knew I was going to get hungry. I've been eating shit last few days so I looked for something better.
I still can't read so I looked in windows and I found a spot that had big glass cases of food. Jackpot!
The place had wifi and pictures of Mickey mouse yelling profanity. Awesome! The girl behind the counter flirted with me a little so I felt like I was hitting my stride.
Finished eating. Now what. Wander ...
I've got to keep moving. I go over a bridge and catch a beautiful view of the kremlin and some shining golden onion domes. Amazing.
And I see a trolly. I don't know how much or how to ask and I don't know where it's going. Perfect!
Last person on, I watch the guy in front of me digging for change. I start looking for signs. He's paying and I find a sign that says "blah blah blah....25p.....blah blah blah...28p" I pull 28 roubles and push it through the window and nothing. I start to sweat a little the a little hand pushes a ticket at me! Success!
I grab a seat and watch the city move by. The city looks familiar...
This fucking trolly went back to the exact spot I started at. Nice!
Off the trolley, I played dark alley. Which I play when I travel. The game is. Find an empty dark alley and don't get beaten to death.
I found an empty alley at the end of the trolly after a block....I found....a farmers market. Perfect!
I need something for my bag on the train tomorrow. Snacks I figure will be like prison currency and I would rather have peanuts and cashews than another less attractive alternative.
I found a stall with two old ladies. I bought four bags of nuts and asked to take a picture with them.
The lady behind the counter took my camera and turned into fellinni. She took 6 pictures of me with the other lady pretending to sell me nuts.
Priceless.
Walked back to the hotel satisfied that I had successfully diverted from the tourist track.
I catch the train midnight tomorrow.
This is going to be fun....
Now it's not the money per se but to mark up 100% because you are in a tourist hotel and you're not going to try and find a post office and fuck you very much sir...
No.
I've been a lazy bitch this trip so I decided to sack up like I should have and find a post office. Looked in the booked, two stops on the metro and I'm there. Looked up the spelling of post office in Cyrillic and found it across the street.
I went to the top of the stairs and between the bottom and the top floor empty, abandoned, blocked off office space. Thanks email!
At the top a confused lady made some hand gestures indicating I should go across the street.
Downstairs I looked but what she meant was around the building. I found another door and behind a glass partition was a sweet old lady that sold me postage for my cards and a couple of stamps for my journal.
Good start.
Now I picked a random direction and wandered down a park lane where kids were sliding on shovels and adults were playing hockey.
I kept walking but I knew I was going to get hungry. I've been eating shit last few days so I looked for something better.
I still can't read so I looked in windows and I found a spot that had big glass cases of food. Jackpot!
The place had wifi and pictures of Mickey mouse yelling profanity. Awesome! The girl behind the counter flirted with me a little so I felt like I was hitting my stride.
Finished eating. Now what. Wander ...
I've got to keep moving. I go over a bridge and catch a beautiful view of the kremlin and some shining golden onion domes. Amazing.
And I see a trolly. I don't know how much or how to ask and I don't know where it's going. Perfect!
Last person on, I watch the guy in front of me digging for change. I start looking for signs. He's paying and I find a sign that says "blah blah blah....25p.....blah blah blah...28p" I pull 28 roubles and push it through the window and nothing. I start to sweat a little the a little hand pushes a ticket at me! Success!
I grab a seat and watch the city move by. The city looks familiar...
This fucking trolly went back to the exact spot I started at. Nice!
Off the trolley, I played dark alley. Which I play when I travel. The game is. Find an empty dark alley and don't get beaten to death.
I found an empty alley at the end of the trolly after a block....I found....a farmers market. Perfect!
I need something for my bag on the train tomorrow. Snacks I figure will be like prison currency and I would rather have peanuts and cashews than another less attractive alternative.
I found a stall with two old ladies. I bought four bags of nuts and asked to take a picture with them.
The lady behind the counter took my camera and turned into fellinni. She took 6 pictures of me with the other lady pretending to sell me nuts.
Priceless.
Walked back to the hotel satisfied that I had successfully diverted from the tourist track.
I catch the train midnight tomorrow.
This is going to be fun....
07 March 2012
Weak
I've been trying, halfway to explore but I'm tired.
I haven't put in the effort I should have to get the experiences I've gotten from other trips.
I am better at getting to metro stations and learning where they go but I haven't bern able to find a russian restaurant. I can't read so I could be passing good ones by.
Left the hotel this morning. Scouting the train station for tomorrow. Looking for some borscht I set out. It's cold today. I don't know how cold but my face hurts. I'm looking for food but not finding anything it's early but anything will do at this point. Well not anything...I saw a subway for sandwiches but the most I'll bend is mcdonalds. Subway. Over the line.
The only black guy I've seen in Moscow handed me a flyer and I asked him in English if there was food in his building ...," da ... Da..," he says.
I go in and it's a clothing store. I ask the staff where I can find some borscht and three people are pointing and waving at spots down the street. I'm bailing out. I nod politely and I'm at the hotel. Borscht just arrived.
I haven't put in the effort I should have to get the experiences I've gotten from other trips.
I am better at getting to metro stations and learning where they go but I haven't bern able to find a russian restaurant. I can't read so I could be passing good ones by.
Left the hotel this morning. Scouting the train station for tomorrow. Looking for some borscht I set out. It's cold today. I don't know how cold but my face hurts. I'm looking for food but not finding anything it's early but anything will do at this point. Well not anything...I saw a subway for sandwiches but the most I'll bend is mcdonalds. Subway. Over the line.
The only black guy I've seen in Moscow handed me a flyer and I asked him in English if there was food in his building ...," da ... Da..," he says.
I go in and it's a clothing store. I ask the staff where I can find some borscht and three people are pointing and waving at spots down the street. I'm bailing out. I nod politely and I'm at the hotel. Borscht just arrived.
06 March 2012
What a life...
I have more than I dreamed I could have when I was a kid. I hoped I would get a good job. Have a little house, wife , kids then pretty much wait to die. That's what I thought it was about.
Let me tell you about my morning. From my hotel room checked my stocks, looked at a few new ones. Listened to some dodger radio. Drew a couple of pictures. Coffee across from the hotel looking at the walls of the kremlin.
This is bragging. I am grateful for all the opportunities I've created and the millions of things my parents, friends, brothers and sisters have done to make all this possible. I think it would be a crime not to enjoy it all.
Leaving the hotel national today. This is. One of my favorite hotels ever. History, comfort , style. Amazing.
Out yesterday I saw one on stalin's seven sisters. So massive and impressive it is difficult to describe how powerful an image it is. Just thinking about it it was as impressive as the pyramids at Giza. Different. Very different but makes you feel small.
Next hotel is in one of the seven sisters.
Trying to get some pics here will get some soon.
Train in two days
Let me tell you about my morning. From my hotel room checked my stocks, looked at a few new ones. Listened to some dodger radio. Drew a couple of pictures. Coffee across from the hotel looking at the walls of the kremlin.
This is bragging. I am grateful for all the opportunities I've created and the millions of things my parents, friends, brothers and sisters have done to make all this possible. I think it would be a crime not to enjoy it all.
Leaving the hotel national today. This is. One of my favorite hotels ever. History, comfort , style. Amazing.
Out yesterday I saw one on stalin's seven sisters. So massive and impressive it is difficult to describe how powerful an image it is. Just thinking about it it was as impressive as the pyramids at Giza. Different. Very different but makes you feel small.
Next hotel is in one of the seven sisters.
Trying to get some pics here will get some soon.
Train in two days
05 March 2012
Feet
Slept the night away yesterday. The election going on and protests, counter protests I stayed in.
Today walked on random directions. Through red square, past St basils, changed money off the main street in a little window.
Cold. Twenties, teens. Not bad, just keep moving.
I got short glances as people would pass me. Suspicious, odd looks, just for a second as they went by. I'm not a local and I figured the stink on me was easy to spot when I realized I was the only person in the city wearing sunglasses.
In my defense it's snowing and the wind is blowing. To me it made sense. Most people had red tense faces from walking in the cold wind but when the cops eyeballed me I adopted the squinty tense face as well.
St basils ... Closed for the election. Kermlin... Same. Pushkin museum ... Closed on Mondays.
So I walked. Not bad. I still cannot read a fucking thing and the 7-11 type store does not exist here or I have not found it. The 7-11 is great Shen I'm on the road and a bitch when it's not around.
Out and about. Thermal. Insulated jacket. I was ok until the dusting of snow got heavier. Wind started to bite and my windproof jacket was at the hotel. Fuck.
Turned back and I'm getting a coat of snow on me so I ducked in for some coffee. Read my book for a bit. Waited it out.
My feet start to hurt.
Got back to the hotel and I'm getting blisters on both feet.
Change shoes tomorrow. Not as warm but I sure I can walk in them.
Four days to the train.
Today walked on random directions. Through red square, past St basils, changed money off the main street in a little window.
Cold. Twenties, teens. Not bad, just keep moving.
I got short glances as people would pass me. Suspicious, odd looks, just for a second as they went by. I'm not a local and I figured the stink on me was easy to spot when I realized I was the only person in the city wearing sunglasses.
In my defense it's snowing and the wind is blowing. To me it made sense. Most people had red tense faces from walking in the cold wind but when the cops eyeballed me I adopted the squinty tense face as well.
St basils ... Closed for the election. Kermlin... Same. Pushkin museum ... Closed on Mondays.
So I walked. Not bad. I still cannot read a fucking thing and the 7-11 type store does not exist here or I have not found it. The 7-11 is great Shen I'm on the road and a bitch when it's not around.
Out and about. Thermal. Insulated jacket. I was ok until the dusting of snow got heavier. Wind started to bite and my windproof jacket was at the hotel. Fuck.
Turned back and I'm getting a coat of snow on me so I ducked in for some coffee. Read my book for a bit. Waited it out.
My feet start to hurt.
Got back to the hotel and I'm getting blisters on both feet.
Change shoes tomorrow. Not as warm but I sure I can walk in them.
Four days to the train.
04 March 2012
Moscow
There are two reasons I take these trips and the way I take them.
One is to mark time. I decided a while ago I wasn't going to wake up , feeble and full of regret because my time just slipped past me. I want to fill my time with as much as I can before it's all gone. No regrets.
The second is to test myself. I cut back the planning a little bit more each trip to see if I can survive... Adapt. One day I won't. That day will suck but today was not that day and it was good.
Twelve hours on the plane. Long then into the terminal. Customs , immigration... No problem. Then out...catch the train into the city. Comfy...a little wifi, some water. Not too cold. Feeling good.
Train pulls into the station and I'm out.
Up to now there gas been English on everything..but now I can't read a fucking thing. Everything is gibberish. I looked in the book on the way over and Cyrillic has letters which look roman but don't have the same sound so announcements don't help me. FUCK!
So I adapt. Follow the crowd. Good...they get me to the metro.
I check the station I'm looking for but I have the roman letters. I can't keep the Cyrillic straight in my head. Look at the map. My hotel is two stations down! Yea!
Hop on the train. Good! No. Wrong train. Map. Read. Map. Read. Go back. Map. Sign. Read. Ok.
Two stations down.
Off the train at the second station. Wrong. Signs. Read. Read. Look. Read. Fuck...
Wait! My station connects to this one. You might think I would ask someone but the struggle us part of it. I know, sick but it works.
Sign. Follow long stucco corridors with chandeliers in the stations. Steep escalators take us down to the pit then up into the open cold.
Turn. Up. Turn. Yes! Right station!
I'm out in the street. There is the fucking kremlin!
Soldiers are everywhere. It's the Putin election. People are ok. No demonstrations but I don't know everything so I follow my map.
I'm getting dusted by snow. Tshirt, jeans and my snow jacket. It's cold but I'm close.
A soldier saw I was lost and pointed me to the hotel.
Yea!
Hotel national. Historic landmark. Government was formed here. My rewards club upgraded me to a studio. Oh! This is the way to go! Red velvet chairs on old parkay heated floor. The bed high and heated too overlooking a side street. Snow falling on the window. Quiet.
Sleep.
This was a tough day. I'm close to my limit but I can still get through shit.
It's 2 am. Wandering tomorrow. Later today actually. First day of a long trip. No bad.
Hungry,
Sleep.
One is to mark time. I decided a while ago I wasn't going to wake up , feeble and full of regret because my time just slipped past me. I want to fill my time with as much as I can before it's all gone. No regrets.
The second is to test myself. I cut back the planning a little bit more each trip to see if I can survive... Adapt. One day I won't. That day will suck but today was not that day and it was good.
Twelve hours on the plane. Long then into the terminal. Customs , immigration... No problem. Then out...catch the train into the city. Comfy...a little wifi, some water. Not too cold. Feeling good.
Train pulls into the station and I'm out.
Up to now there gas been English on everything..but now I can't read a fucking thing. Everything is gibberish. I looked in the book on the way over and Cyrillic has letters which look roman but don't have the same sound so announcements don't help me. FUCK!
So I adapt. Follow the crowd. Good...they get me to the metro.
I check the station I'm looking for but I have the roman letters. I can't keep the Cyrillic straight in my head. Look at the map. My hotel is two stations down! Yea!
Hop on the train. Good! No. Wrong train. Map. Read. Map. Read. Go back. Map. Sign. Read. Ok.
Two stations down.
Off the train at the second station. Wrong. Signs. Read. Read. Look. Read. Fuck...
Wait! My station connects to this one. You might think I would ask someone but the struggle us part of it. I know, sick but it works.
Sign. Follow long stucco corridors with chandeliers in the stations. Steep escalators take us down to the pit then up into the open cold.
Turn. Up. Turn. Yes! Right station!
I'm out in the street. There is the fucking kremlin!
Soldiers are everywhere. It's the Putin election. People are ok. No demonstrations but I don't know everything so I follow my map.
I'm getting dusted by snow. Tshirt, jeans and my snow jacket. It's cold but I'm close.
A soldier saw I was lost and pointed me to the hotel.
Yea!
Hotel national. Historic landmark. Government was formed here. My rewards club upgraded me to a studio. Oh! This is the way to go! Red velvet chairs on old parkay heated floor. The bed high and heated too overlooking a side street. Snow falling on the window. Quiet.
Sleep.
This was a tough day. I'm close to my limit but I can still get through shit.
It's 2 am. Wandering tomorrow. Later today actually. First day of a long trip. No bad.
Hungry,
Sleep.
02 March 2012
the day before
Laundry, dishes, tv...
Usually I'm right to the airport at the first opportunity for my vacation. This time, day before and couple of days after, free. It's relaxing. I'm learning a bit about what works for me.
It's about fucking time...
tomorrow...the air port....
It's going to be fun....
Usually I'm right to the airport at the first opportunity for my vacation. This time, day before and couple of days after, free. It's relaxing. I'm learning a bit about what works for me.
It's about fucking time...
tomorrow...the air port....
It's going to be fun....
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